Coffee, Chocolate and Jade

February 12th, 2010
Day 25.  Kaffee Fernando’s speciality is an own recipe white chocolate.  Ordinary white chocolate contains no cocoa solids and consists only of cocoa butter, milk powder and sugar (and is derided by true chocolate enthusiasts) whereas Fernando’s white chocolate uses “white cocoa solids” to give it a chocolatey taste.  Fab!  In addition, the cocoa beans they use aren’t bitter (apparently only 2% of the world’s production is not bitter) and can be eaten raw and unroasted and are a great antioxidant.  However be warned … a couple of beans sent us flying out of the coffee shop!

Beans means chocolate

Fernando, the man himself

The local markets are famous for embroidery, handicrafts and Jade.  We were struggling to find any embroidery to buy because they were a bit too heavy to carry and the colours a bit loud for modern furnishings in the UK, and then by chance, we came across a lady selling magnets.  Safe was instantly mesmerised and swapped a couple for some pretzels.  We were amused to find around the corner that every male tourist had also bought the same magnets and hadn’t managed to purchase any local embroidery either.  It was a male magnetic bonding moment!  We did manage to purchase a jade necklace after some heavy bartering.  The seller’s wife wore an “antique Mayan artifact” jade necklace for which he wanted 800 US Dollars (you know you’re in trouble when a price is quoted in US Dollars)!  We decided to go for a more recently manufactured article for a fraction of the price (quoted in Guatemalan Pretzels).  You can see the ancient relic around the vendor’s neck in the photo.

Jade seller

Camera Experiment (continued …)
Objective: To assess the effects of salt water on a digital camera.
Design: Throw camera into the sea in Belize.
Method: Wash camera in fresh water then dry out for four days using silica gel and rice.  Switch camera on.
Results:
  • Photos were intact on the the SD card, but only after it eventually dried out.
  • The camera can be switched on and makes a brave attempt to take photos, but our expert assessment is that the camera is knackered!
Conclusion: Camera and salt water don’t mix.  Replacement bought from a shop in the main square in Antigua!
Picture taken by salted camera
Tonight we said goodbye to Willy, our team mascot.  At just short of 70 years, he might have been the oldest member of our group, but certainly was the youngest at heart.  We will remember him fondly for giving his money and food away to stray children and dogs, and for keeping an eye out for all of us.  He was a pleasure to travel with and we shall miss him!  We wish him well for the future.  Wrap up warm in Antwerp, Willy!

Willy (who was definitely not drunk)

Volcano!

February 11th, 2010

Day 24.  Antigua, Guatemala!

Factoid:  Antigua is an old colonial town with cobbled streets surrounded by active volcanoes.  It has a plethora of cafe’s and restaurants serving fantastic coffee and chocolate.

This afternoon’s excursion was a hike up Volcan Pacaya to see rivers of molten rock, to roast bananas on molten rock, and to melt the soles of our shoes on molten rock.  Unfortunately our bus on the way to the volcano had a blow out.  We initially thought that banditos were shooting at us, however the hour’s stop to change a tyre was a giveaway.  After a total delay of two hours we finally arrived at the volcano and reached the lava flows just as the sun was setting.  It was great to see the bright red lava at night under the stars, but walking downhill on the cooled pumice lava flows whilst dodging the fire pits in the pitch black was … urm … entertaining.

By the way, here are some further items lent to us by Jodie:

  • Mexican Pesos
  • American Dollars
  • Paw-paw cream for Annie’s finger
  • A torch to light our way down the volcano

Isle of Kevin

February 10th, 2010

Day 23. We left the island of Flores all too soon to spend a long ride in a minibus. Our driver wanted to put our bags on the roof in the pouring rain (they get 2000mm per year here) so we decided to sit on our bags instead. By the time our bums were well and truly numb, we reached Rio Dulce where we were met by a smiley-faced Hidalgo who took us by speed boat to “Kevin Island”. (We wondered if there was an Isle of Annie round the corner …)

Factoid: Kevin Island (more usually known as Catamaran Island) is a small lump of rock in the middle of the lake containing one hotel bought and run by an American called Kevin. The island has its own currency called Kevin Dollars which is the only currency accepted when buying drinks at the bar.

Kevin Island

A group of us hired the services of Hidalgo to take us on a tour of the beautiful Rio Dulce down to the isolated Caribbean town of Livingston.  We had already set a precendent for drinking rum and coke on boat trips so we picked up some 8 year old aged Guatemalan rum (and some American Coke) from the supermercado on the way to Rio Dulce.  As it happens, we found a few other interesting products for sale at the supermercado:

This supermarket will home deliver your placenta

The trip to Livingston was as interesting as Livingston itself, a one hour trip through mostly uninhabited rainforest with a few wooden huts at the river’s edge where the only mode of transport was a dugout canoe.  We passed plenty of wildlife on the small islets en route.  (We’re still not sure how the iguanas got onto these islets and whether they’ll ever leave).  It was idyllic and would be an amazing tourist destination if marketed properly.  Livingston has a good fish restaurant which, like the inhabitants of the town, has a mix of Latino and Black Caribbean cultures.

Girl in a boat on the way to Livingston

Pelicans at Livingston

Back to Kevin island to spend some Kevin dollars on Kevin drinks and a bit of Kevin black bean soup for tea.

Kevin Dollar

May The Force Be With You, Mr Tickle

February 9th, 2010

Day 22. Another day, another country, with a pre 6am start. We reached the border with Guatemala and walked the 50 metres of No Man’s Land to meet Hugo, our new driver. No Man’s Land is inhabited by hoards of money changers eager to give you a outrageous exchange rate for your spare Belizean Dollars.

Factoid: The Guatemalan currency is called the Quetzal, which is named after the national bird, a tiny creature with unfeasibly long green tail feathers. Quetzals were shamelessly slaughtered in their thousands to make Moctezuma’s famous head-dress as worn by Safe in the Anthropological Museum in Mexico City. The Guatemalan Quetzal is affectionately and childishly known as the Guatemalan Pretzel … by us alone!

Our bags were loaded onto the roof of our van after which some dodgy character smiled at us as he took pictures of the bags with his mobile phone. Evil stares from us just encouraged him to take more pictures and smile even more. We presume he was trying to find the highest price for our belongings at the standard tourist ambush spot down the road. Thankfully, we’ve not been ambushed yet. Perhaps he has yet to be offered enough pretzels.

The pile of old rocks at Tikal was our next port of call. Our guide for the day was Miguel Antonio Marin Constanza (you’re nobody if you have less than four names in Central America). After about an hour, we managed to stop giggling and tickling each other every time he said the word “Tikal”, and it turned out he was an ornithologist / monkey caller / all-round animal enthusiast. We saw where the Ewoks used to live.  Return of the Jedi was filmed here (the scenes in the jungle rather than on the Death Star … recognise it?).

Ewoks live here

Then Migual got over-excited and made us stalk every little rustle in the bushes.  The animal shots look stolen, but we did take them … we used a particularly long zoom for the crocodile …

Some jungle creatures of Guatemala

Some more jungle creatures of Guatemala

We learnt several interesting factoids from our guide:

Factoid: According to the Mayan calendar, on 21st December 2012 (Lizzy’s Birthday) we will be entering “The 6th Cycle of the Sun” a galactic event that occurs every 5,125 years.  There have have been predictions of huge changes in global climate and even the end of the world.  These predictions inspired the film “2012” which we’re told is complete rubbish and not to be watched.

Factoid: It is believed that indigenous Meso-Americans came from the Far East via a land bridge over the Bering Strait around the time of the last ice age around 13,000 BC.  They share a genetically common heritage and are phenotypically similar to Far Easter populations.  They also share the “Mongolian Spot“.

As if we hadn’t travelled enough today, we took an hour’s journey to the star-island Flores where we ate freshly caught lake fish in the monsoon rain.

Flores

By the way, here’s another animal we saw at Tikal, this time a moth climbing up a tree.  We really liked the picture so here it is:

Moth

ATM – A Hole In The Wall

February 8th, 2010

Day 21.  We spent the day caving in the sacred Mayan caves at Actun Tunichil Muknal (affectionately known as ATM) which is ranked No. 1 by The National Geographic in their Top 10 Sacred Caves!  (We wondered at this point what other “Top 10’s” The National Geographic had compiled).

We had to wade and swim for a kilometre underground in the pitch black, neck deep in cold water with fishes nibbling at our legs to get to the Sacred Cave.

Jodie at ATM with Annie and Safe dodging the nibbling fish

We were instructed to wear socks during our visit to one of the sacred chambers so as not to damage any minerals.

Aunty Audrey's Christmas Socks

The cave contains many weird and wonderful looking limestone rock formations and if you squint hard enough, you can make out many images.  Our favourite was the so called “Nativity Scene” complete with animals … apparently.

Nativity

The photographs are thanks to our compadre, Jodie, better known as The Woman Who Has Everything (In Her Bag).  So far, we’re indebted to her for:

  • Two zip-lock bags
  • Silica gel
  • Bug spray
  • Collapsing shopping bag
  • Travel sickness pills
  • Sticky backed tape
  • Films
  • Half an avocado sandwich breakfast in San Cristobal when ours fell through

Our camera water experiment is well underway.  We have added a bag of rice to silica gel to speed up the drying process.  Perhaps we’ll switch it on tomorrow …

An old Belizean recipe - Camera in rice

Thomas The Tank Engine … Meet James The Bus!

February 7th, 2010

Day 20.  Today was spent getting from our island paradise to San Ignacio by way of Rugby Scrum (or perhaps an American Football scrimmage as the Super Bowl was played today).  At 1.44pm, we were in a polite queue waiting for our bus with several other people.  At 1.45pm, the bus arrived and elbows came flying out of nowhere.

Factoid: It is a little known fact that although we thought “Chicken Buses” were so called because the passengers are packed in like chickens, the real reason is because if you chicken out of the scrum with your fellow passengers, you’re left trampled on the floor outside and the bus leaves you behind.

We counted at least 90 people on the bus, two of whom were little old ladies, both of whom sat on Safe’s knee.  (We fought so hard for our seats but Safe was a soft touch for the old dears).

Our bus was called James, a very respectable name for an unrespectable bus in this former British Colony …

My cousin is called Thomas

Sharks, Rays and Barracudas … Oh My!

February 6th, 2010

Day 19.  After a group Pilates session on the football pitch beside our lodgings, we feasted on a breakfast of lobster omelette and banana pancakes in preparation for a full day boat trip.  We headed down Front Street to catch our sail boat.

Factoid: Caye Caulker (pronounced “Key Corker”) is a small tropical island which you can walk round in less than an hour.  It has three main streets (or more accurately, dirt tracks) known imaginatively as Front Street, Middle Street and Back Street.  No cars are allowed on the island and transport is limited to feet, bike or trusty golf cart.  Some years ago, a hurricane cased the sea to flood the middle of the island and split it in two.  The site of the split is imaginatively known as “The Split” and is now the site for a great bar of the same name, half of which is in the sea.

We spent a pleasant day snorkling amongst the friendly inhabitants of the Hol Chan Marine Reserve.  We petted the nurse sharks and eagle rays then sailed into the sunset with a keg of One Barrel Rum punch.  The Captain of our boat was a man called Miguel from Nicaragua with interesting tooth jewellery (which seems common in Central America) which we think help him catch fish with his mouth.

Miguel

Tooth Jewellery

We’d had so much fun on the boat that we decided to throw our camera into the sea to see what would happen.  We shall let you know the results of our experiment in the next few days …

That evening, after being thoroughly loaded with Rum Punch, we had a stint at “The Split” followed by more lobster at a restaurant called the Happy Lobster.  (We suspect that we were much happier than the poor lobster we were eating).  The night was still young so we made a beeline for the only night club on the island.  Safe increased his fan base by singing karaoke to the locals … Toni Braxton’s Unbreak My Heart.

Safe sampling the local beer, "Belikin", at The Split with Val and Jodie

Safe singing Unbreak My Heart in Caye Caulker:

Banana Smuggling

February 5th, 2010

Day 18.  We made a break for the border leaving our hotel before sunrise with our stash of provisions.  After an uneventful journey to the border town of Chetumal we changed buses to the Belizian chicken bus which was to take us across the border.  After being fleeced by the Mexican customs for a random amount of American Dollars, a so called “exit tax”, we drove another 15 metres to Belize. We saw the signs informing us of illegal substances not allowed to be brought into the country including fresh produce…we wern’t sure if that included meat and cheeses but to be sure we had a feeding frenzy and consumed our entire days provisions in 5 minutes flat.

Even though Belize is an English speaking country, we found it surprisingly hard not to speak Spanish to the charming customs officers.  We passed through customs uneventfully and were only asked if we were carrying fruit then ushered through.  We boarded the bus then continued on our journey to Belize City.  A few of things of note happened along the way:

  1. Our compadre, Willy, casually produced a banana from his bag which he had failed to declare at customs.  We’re not sure if this was intentional, but the smirk on his face gave him away.  We’re officially travelling in the company of criminals!
  2. The bus driver accidentally left one of the passengers (a German business man) at the border.  Fifteen minutes into the journey, the German finally caught up with us in a taxi which he’d had to hire and proceeded to hurl abuse at the bus driver.  Needless to say, the German did not have a sense of humour!
  3. The bus driver, to save a few pesos, decided to switch off the air conditioning for the rest of the four hour journey  to Belize City.  Locals and tourists alike melted into their seats, most opting to sleep.

The final leg of today’s journey was a speed boat trip from Belize City to the island of Caye Calker, spiritually home to backpackers, and where lobster is cheaper than chicken and eaten at any time of day.

Caye Caulker

Lazy Day

February 4th, 2010

Day 17. Planned to go and see more “piles of old stones” but then bailed out and spent the day on the beach at Playa Del Carmen ….

and saw a “pile of new stones” instead…..

super mercado

We stocked up on provisions as we had been warned that we might not get to eat the next day whilst we were crossing the border into Belize.

Last Sunset in Mexico (for us!)

Reverse By Turning The Lever Under Your Seat

February 3rd, 2010

Day 16.  Didn’t we have a lovely time the day we went to the seaside (aka Isla Mujeres)!  A short ferry ride to the island of Isla Mujeres, we secured our transport … one golf cart and four bicycles, all of which had the same top speed, except for one bike which actually worked, and whose rider (Val) was able to lap us four times over.

After a circuit of the island and an hour or two swimming at beaches we didn’t have to pay $20 to get onto, we sat down to a meal of fresh fish and chips (actually, fish and tacos) on the seafront.

Holy crepes!

Crepes for dessert before a fish dinner